Imagine launching an anti-aging cream and telling your customer it has a nano liposomal retinol hydrogel. It is a genuine innovation, and I am proud of the science behind things like this. But most customers do not know what it means and, to be honest, they do not care.
They want to know one thing: what will this do for me, and by when? “Reduces fine lines in two weeks” is a claim they understand in three seconds. That is the sentence that sells the product.
But a claim like that comes with a condition. You have to be able to prove it.
Everyone is asking for proof now
I recently spoke on this at a webinar for beauty brands, and the list of people who want to see your data keeps growing:
- The law. The Drugs and Cosmetics Act prohibits false or misleading claims in India. The EU, the US FDA and the FTC all have their own expectations, and the FTC in particular is not shy about going after brands.
- ASCI. The Advertising Standards Council of India takes up complaints, and it also files cases on its own against brands making unsupported claims.
- Ad platforms and marketplaces. Run an ad on Facebook or sell on Amazon and you may be asked for the report behind your claim. This is why so many ads carry an asterisk and a footnote.
So substantiation is no longer optional. The more interesting question is what you do with the data once you have it.
Stop treating claim studies as a cost
Brands that make clear, specific claims tend to see better click-through and conversion. “Waterproof”, “tan removal in 10 minutes”, “lasts six hours, SPF 50”. The customer does not have to decode anything.
Claims can also quietly grow your lifetime value. If your study shows results at eight weeks, you are telling the customer to keep using the product for eight weeks. That is a repeat order, or a bigger pack. “7x brightening in two weeks” does the same job for a shorter cycle.
Then there is the doctor effect. In skincare, a dermatologist’s recommendation is the final word. Run well-designed trials with dermatologists and you earn the right to say “dermatologist recommended”. Cetaphil is a good example. For years it quietly built its position through dermatologists, and today it is strong across general trade, D2C and marketplaces.
And consumers are increasingly loyal to results, not brands. If your product delivers, they stay. If it does not, they switch without a second thought.
Three ways to back a claim
- Consumer studies. Samples go home with users, followed by a survey. You get larger numbers, but less control over how the product is actually used, so the outcomes can be subjective.
- Clinical studies. Run under dermatologist supervision with instruments that give you quantitative numbers. Hydration is measured with a Corneometer, elasticity with a Cutometer, pigmentation with a Mexameter, oil with a Sebumeter, and barrier repair through transepidermal water loss. These are done once, during development, not for every batch.
- Analytical testing. No human participants, just the product in the lab. This covers the “free from” claims such as paraben free, phthalate free, sulfate free, and very soon, I expect, PFAS free. Techniques like real-time PCR can even support claims like vegan by confirming there is no animal DNA.
Where AI helps
For years, image-based studies depended on a panel of people grading photographs, which is subjective. We now use a 3D facial imaging system with AI-based analysis that builds a 3D replica of the face and measures pores, wrinkles and more, objectively and reproducibly.
In one study, pore area dropped from 134 to 102 between baseline and day 60. The part I like most is that the system can measure around 180 parameters without being told what to look for. In one case a brand believed its new ingredient would only help with oil control. The data showed anti-aging benefits too, and that became a second claim.
Test every batch, not just the formula
If you claim paraben free, checking your formula is only the first step. I have seen products that were clean on paper suddenly test positive because a supplier changed the preservative in a pre-compounded active. No one on the brand side knew until the batch was tested.
If your claim is a promise to the customer, it has to be true for every batch you ship.
A word of caution on claims
One participant asked whether a 48-hour moisturising claim is meaningful when people wash their face every 8 to 12 hours. My honest answer: a lot of claims are driven by marketing and are not always rational from a scientific point of view, much like the race to put 10 or 30 percent of an active into a formula. They can be substantiated, and they can be used, but good science and good marketing are not always the same thing.
The best approach is the simple one. Make claims your customer understands, prove them with proper data, and make sure your product actually delivers. Do that and compliance stops being a cost. It becomes your edge.
If you are working on a claim and want to figure out the right study or test for it, reach out to me. I am always happy to talk it through.